House Mouse Extermination

Sanitation, mouse-proof construction, and population decrease are all important components of effective mouse management. The first two are good preventative actions. When there is already a mouse infestation, some type of population control is usually always required. Trapping and poisoning are two methods of population reduction.

Sanitation.

Mice can survive in extremely small spaces with inadequate food and shelter. As a result, regardless of hygiene, most places where food is stored, handled, or used will support house mice if not mouse-proofed. Although excellent cleanliness rarely eliminates mice, poor sanitation will undoubtedly attract them and allow them to multiply in greater numbers. Good sanitation will also minimize the food and shelter available to existing mice, making baits and traps more effective. Pay special care to remove any possible hiding spots for mice. They cannot live in significant numbers if they have limited places to rest, hide, or build nests, and rear young.

Mouse-Proof Design.

The most effective and long-lasting method of house mouse control is to “build them out” by closing all openings via which they can enter a structure. Mouse-proofing should be done in all areas where food is stored, processed, or used. Dried grain and meat items should be stored in glass jars, metal canisters, or other airtight containers that can be resealed.

To keep mice out, seal any openings larger than 1/4 inch. A good plug is made of steel wool mixed with a caulking compound. To prevent mice from pulling out or chewing through the patching compound, the surface of the patching substance must be smooth. Metal or concrete should be used to seal cracks and gaps in building foundations, as well as apertures for water pipes, vents, and utilities. Doors, windows, and screens must all fit snugly. To prevent nibbling, the edges may need to be covered with metal. Plastic sheeting or screen, wood, rubber, or other gnawable materials are not appropriate for closing mouse holes.

Traps.

Trapping is an effective means of control. When there are only a few mice in a structure, this is usually the favored technique of control. Trapping offers various advantages:

• (1) it does not employ fundamentally dangerous poisons
• (2) it does not rely on inherently hazardous poisons
• (1) it does not employ fundamentally dangerous poisons

Most hardware and supermarket stores sell effective, low-cost wood snap traps. Peanut butter, chocolate chocolates, dried fruit, or bacon are used to bait traps. Make them delicate and easy to spring. Some hardware and feed stores sell multiple-capture live mouse traps. Place traps along walls, behind objects, in dark corners, and anywhere mice are active. Place them where mice will walk over them on their normal path, which is usually near a wall. If mice are present, traps might be set on ledges or pallets. Use enough traps to kill rodents rapidly. Mice rarely leave their refuge and food source, therefore place traps no more than 10 feet apart in mice-infested areas. Prebaiting (leaving traps unset until the bait is taken) enhances trapping success. Glue boards capture mice like flypaper capture flies. Stick boards along mouse-prone walls. Two or three side-by-side adhesive boards are more effective than one (or the larger glue boards used for rats). They shouldn’t be used near children, pets, or wildlife. Glue boards can be stored in tamper-proof bait boxes in exposed areas. Glue boards lose efficacy in dusty areas until covered, and temperature changes affect glue tackiness. Mice terrified of snap traps are sometimes caught with glue boards.

Poisonous Bait (Rodenticides). 

Rodenticides are poisons that are used to kill rodents. They are available in hardware stores, feed stores, bargain stores, garden centers, and other places that sell insecticides. Buy unlabeled rat baits from street sellers or other untrustworthy sources. Purchase no baits with a partial label or that appear to be “homemade.”

The most effective control tactics include “building out” rodents and trapping. Rodent baits should only be used as a supplement to these procedures. If baits are required on a regular basis, sanitation and mouse-proofing should be increased. Keep in mind that rodent baits are poisonous. Check that they are registered with the US Environmental Protection Agency and that they are used exactly as directed on the label. If the bait is used indoors, make sure it is labeled particularly for that purpose.

Because the active components in baits are utilized at such low concentrations, bait shyness does not occur when correctly constructed baits are used. Most of these baits kill only after several days of consumption, while certain varieties can kill after a single feeding. Ensure that fresh bait is always accessible until the mice stop eating. This could take up to three weeks depending on the number of mice.

Selection and Placement of Bait 

Baits come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Grain baits are available in compact plastic, cellophane, or paper packages in meal or pelleted form. These sealed “place packs” keep the bait fresh and make it simple to place it in burrows, walls, and other spots. Mice bite into the bait container to feed. In most instances, block-style baits are also highly successful. Proper bait placement and distance between placements are critical. Place the baits no more than 10 feet apart, preferably closer together. Baits or traps must be placed where mice live for effective control. The usage of tamper-resistant bait stations protects humans, pets, and other animals. Place bait stations near walls with openings, or in other areas where mice are active. Secure the bait station to a fixed item wherever feasible to prevent it from being relocated. As a safety precaution, clearly label all bait stations “Caution—Mouse Bait.”

Electronic and Audio Devices

Although mice are easily startled by new or unfamiliar noises, they soon acquire accustomed to routinely repeated sounds and are sometimes found living in grain mills or factories, as well as other noisy environments. Because they are directional and do not penetrate behind things, ultrasonic noises, those above the range of human hearing, have extremely limited use in rodent control. They also lose intensity quickly with distance. There is little evidence that any form of sound will drive established mice or rats out of buildings since they acquire acclimated to it quickly.

Cats and Dogs Are In Control. 

Although cats, dogs, and other predators can kill mice, they rarely provide effective control. Rodents can live in close quarters with dogs and cats. Mice and rats may get a large portion of their food from the pet’s dish or from what the pet spills.

Dead Rodents Disposal

When removing dead rats and cleaning or sanitizing rodent-contaminated goods, always wear undamaged rubber or plastic gloves. Place the deceased rodent in a plastic bag, which should be placed within another bag and carefully sealed. Rodents should be disposed of in trash cans with tight-fitting lids. Soak traps in a solution of three teaspoons of bleach per gallon of water or a commercial disinfectant containing phenol to disinfect them (such as Lysol). Hands should be properly washed in a basic household disinfectant or soap and warm water after handling rats, resetting traps, and cleaning contaminated objects. After that, take off your gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water.